File numbering with two bodies?

[Box Brownie]

Hi all

I now have the OM1 and the OM1 mk2

On my OM1 I have the file names as MDD as that is useful when saving them into specific named/dated folders on the PC

However, the actual file being set to "auto" means that the numbering continues to climb, which is what I like as it avoids duplication of the individual number part of the MDDxxxxx
My question is what do other users of two bodies do, as that could in certain circumstances mean that there could/would be identical numbers with same date.

Now, it may be some time before such duplication would occur but just wondered what others do when you have two bodies?

TIA

[Bikie John]

For each new body I change the first letter of the file name. If your colour space is set to sRGB the default is P, you can change it and preserve the MDD and sequence numbers.

I think I'm up to "J" now

John

[Box Brownie]

For each new body I change the first letter of the file name. If your colour space is set to sRGB the default is P, you can change it and preserve the MDD and sequence numbers.

I think I'm up to "J" now

John

Thanks for the insights

Though I shoot raw I have always set aRGB and the 'first' letter is an "underscore" and I had forgotten that with sRGB you can select the preceding letter.

As I use raw and the choice of aRGB or sRGB is effectively academic................what you advise is the only was to way delineate the different bodies. Looks like I am going to have to change my usual practice

[Bikie John]

Exactly. I did a test to make sure that the "raw" data was the same regardless of the colour space setting (since we know that "raw" data is often slightly cooked in the camera) and it was. So I switched back to sRGB just so I could change the first character and keep the rest of the name.

John

[Ross the fiddler]

I have multiple Olympus bodies (including a couple of Stylus 1 cameras in the family) & I have a unique first character for each. I save JPEG & RAW on them all too, so if I see the need to process the output in adobe RBG then I can from the RAW files (not that I have).

[Wreckdiver]

I have multiple bodies, Olympus, OM System and Nikon. I change the first 3 characters to denote the camera body. That then leaves 5 digits for file date/identification but that's not a problem as I have 10 - 12 memory cards which use 1 per subject location.

[Ross the fiddler]

I have multiple bodies, Olympus, OM System and Nikon. I change the first 3 characters to denote the camera body. That then leaves 5 digits for file date/identification but that's not a problem as I have 10 - 12 memory cards which use 1 per subject location.

The first character can be changed on Olympus bodies without affecting the date, but the next three digits are the date, unless setting it as a Directory numbering, & only the last four digits are the counts.

This is from the OM-1 User Manual.

[Wreckdiver]

On my Nikons my first 3 characters are 810 and 850 for D810 and D850 respectively.

[Ross the fiddler]

I guess that is fine with Nikon file naming, but I like to preserve my date component in my Olympus file names. It doesn't show the year obviously but that is still in the EXIF though.

[blu-by-u]

I don't know if this will help.

I made a big error in my 2 cameras that I carried with me to Surabaya. Both were set to Pxxxxxxxx. Now I have 2 cameras and I don't know which is which from the file name unless I look into the details. I tried to rename using win10 file manager which is just useless. I accidently found a way in WS. There is a rename in it to rename the Prefix and Suffix and start the sequence. All you need to do is open the folder, highlight and right mouse button and select rename all.

[RedRobin]

I shoot with OM-1 and M1X bodies where the OM-1 is always the only body I take out with me if I know I will only need one lens such as the big white one. Otherwise, a second lens is on my M1X. I used to shoot with a pair of M1X but upgraded according to what I could afford having spent my money buying the superb 150-400mm TC supertelephoto. I do everything I can to avoid opening a body outdoors to change a lens and also it saves time and reduces the chances of missing the shot.

For me, camera bodies are merely control modules for a chosen lens. Choice of lens, not body, is what comes first.

I exclusively shoot RAW files and my bodies are set by me as OMDxxxxx.orf and M1Xxxxxx.orf so I can always see which body I used. I cull and edit adding my image title ~ For example, Location Subject 'Name'_OMDxxxx.orf for railway and equine photography. The underscore prefix is only to separate for easier legibility. After uploading I always reformat my cards before shooting again.

I don't know if this information helps anyone but that's what I do and have done so for many years including when I shot with several Canon bodies before I moved to Olympus in late 2019.

[RedRobin]

Thanks for the info Ross. However, I personally don't need to see the date displayed in the file number and it complicates the legibility with too many numbers. I prefer to keep things simple.

[Ross the fiddler]

What happens to the 4th digit then, since only 4 digits count the frames?

[RedRobin]

Ross, 4th digit? 4th numeral? I don't know the answer to your question. My last OM-1 file shot last week is OMD14978.orf and last E-M1X file is M1X22158.orf. It's much easier to remember the last 5 numerals when culling and editing my images etc.

[Ross the fiddler]

I shoot with OM-1 and M1X bodies where the OM-1 is always the only body I take out with me if I know I will only need one lens such as the big white one. Otherwise, a second lens is on my M1X. I used to shoot with a pair of M1X but upgraded according to what I could afford having spent my money buying the superb 150-400mm TC supertelephoto. I do everything I can to avoid opening a body outdoors to change a lens and also it saves time and reduces the chances of missing the shot.

For me, camera bodies are merely control modules for a chosen lens. Choice of lens, not body, is what comes first.

I exclusively shoot RAW files and my bodies are set by me as OMDxxxxx.orf and M1Xxxxxx.orf so I can always see which body I used. I cull and edit adding my image title ~ For example, Location Subject 'Name'_OMDxxxx.orf for railway and equine photography. The underscore prefix is only to separate for easier legibility. After uploading I always reformat my cards before shooting again.

I don't know if this information helps anyone but that's what I do and have done so for many years including when I shot with several Canon bodies before I moved to Olympus in late 2019.

In our household, I have to keep several file names different since there are 2 Stylus 1, an E-M5, E-M1, E-M1 II & OM-1, then again keeping in mind past models (still in the house & occasionally tested for the fun of it) E-410, E-520 & E-30 DSLRs too. I soon had to learn to name each with their own first character to keep each distinguishable when downloading & saving.

[MikeOxon]

I download into different folders, assigned to each of my cameras. I also use the prefix P on my E-M5 and M on my E-M1. I also have folders for iPhone, etc. This keeps everything separate and if I want to organise by subject, I copy into another set of folders. I agree that this leads to duplication but memory is not expensive.