Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

In-camera NR on or off?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • In-camera NR on or off?

    With all the options out there for post-processing noise removal, do you still have it turned on in camera?
    Celeste

    “As my artist’s statement explains, my work is utterly incomprehensible and is therefore full of deep significance” ~Calvin + Hobbes

  • #2
    Even though I shoot raw I leave it on, not that it does anything for raw files. Just left it on incase I switch to jpeg


    Gary

    Comment


    • #3
      Which noise reduction are we talking about? There's noise reduction which can be applied to JPGs, If you shoot RAW then it doesn't really matter how you have that set. Then there's what OM call Noise Reduction which is more generally known as dark frame subtraction. That latter, as far as I know, requires the mechanical shutter as the camera takes the image then takes a second one with the shutter closed which (hopefully) captures the sensor noise. This noise is then subtracted from the initial image but I'm unsure whether the result is stored as the RAW file or just used to create a JPG.
      Best wishes

      Wildwood

      Comment


      • #4
        I open ORFs in DxO Pro 9.

        Harold
        The body is willing but the mind is weak.

        Comment


        • Pannas
          Pannas commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes, like you, since I've been using DXO Photolab, noise has never been a concern and neither has high ISO settings

      • #5
        I just checked - I have Noise Filter under Camera 1 menu page 3 set on to the “low” value on my OM-1mk ii.

        I mostly use RAW files which aren’t affected by this setting as already noted but occasionally I use out of camera in camera focus stack JPEG files and HHHR JPEG files. So maybe my thinking was I’d get a little bit of NR on those. If you set it too aggressive you’ll lose some detail on the JPEGs. If you’re just taking RAW files I wouldn’t worry about it.

        You can get some noise control by managing the heat build up in the camera too as the increased temperature of the sensor causes noise. Things like using the quick sleep modes, flipping out the LCD to improve cooling, lower EVF frame rate and battery only in the camera grip have been suggested. I think the improvement in regular photography is probably marginal, maybe for astrophotography worth considering. I just use DxO!

        Bill
        https://www.flickr.com/photos/macg33zr/

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by BDennis View Post
          You can get some noise control by managing the heat build up in the camera too as the increased temperature of the sensor causes noise. Things like using the quick sleep modes, flipping out the LCD to improve cooling, lower EVF frame rate and battery only in the camera grip have been suggested. I think the improvement in regular photography is probably marginal, maybe for astrophotography worth considering. I just use DxO!

          Bill
          Yes I've heard about those tricks to avoid heat build-up too. I've not tried any of them and, like you, I think any improvement would be marginal at best. One thing which does generate a lot of heat is video, especially once you get into higher definition like 4k. So I think that avoiding shooting video would probably be more useful than moving the battery to the grip or whatever.

          I wonder if astro-photographers have noticed any difference in noise levels between images taken on warm and cool nights?
          Best wishes

          Wildwood

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by Wildwood View Post
            Which noise reduction are we talking about? There's noise reduction which can be applied to JPGs, If you shoot RAW then it doesn't really matter how you have that set. Then there's what OM call Noise Reduction which is more generally known as dark frame subtraction. That latter, as far as I know, requires the mechanical shutter as the camera takes the image then takes a second one with the shutter closed which (hopefully) captures the sensor noise. This noise is then subtracted from the initial image but I'm unsure whether the result is stored as the RAW file or just used to create a JPG.
            .... That's my understanding too ~ That you can't apply OM in-camera noise reduction if shooting with electronic shutter (which I do by default).

            But I have also watched videos by photographers I greatly respect who advise against NR onboard the camera.

            I only shoot RAW and I process and edit in ON1 PhotoRAW and have done so for many years. ON1 has built-in a comprehensive NR settings palette including AI options. The most widely recommended third party NR software is DxO which I have never needed to use but I have used Topaz and strongly recommend NOT using it!
            My Flickr pages

            Comment


            • #8
              Bear in mind, that if you are shooting jpegs, you cannot apply AI noise reduction in DXO or Lightroom. I believe topaz can still apply noise reduction.

              Comment


              • RedRobin
                RedRobin commented
                Editing a comment
                shakyHands Very good point, albeit not relevant to myself because I exclusively shoot RAW.

                ON1 NoNoise has both AI and none AI options but I don't know about JPEG. I think it can apply NR to TIFF though.

            • #9
              Mine is OFF but I only use RAW unless I'm in camera stacking then it is JPG/RAW. My biggest bugbear is that with my OM1 mk1 I get Terrible noise at iso6400. Who uses a lower iso for Birding?? as I am hating iso6400. I use the denoise in Lightroom as I find Topaz smooths out the feathers to much.

              Comment


              • #10
                I never use it in camera if i am denoising it's DXO, but I do keep the original JPG to compare with to see whether I am improving thigs or not

                Regards Andy
                4/3 Kit E510, E30 + 35macro, 11-22, 14-45 (x2), 14-54, 40-150 (both types), 70-300,
                m 4/3 EM1MkII + 60 macro, 12-100 Pro, 100-400
                FL20, FL36 x2 , FL50, cactus slaves etc.
                The Boss (Mrs Shenstone) E620, EM10-II, 14-41Ez, 40-150R, 9 cap and whatever she can nick from me when she wants it

                My places
                http://www.shenstone.me.uk
                http://landroverkaty.blogspot.com/
                https://vimeo.com/shenstone
                http://cardiffnaturalists.org.uk/
                http://swga.org.uk/

                Comment

                Working...
                X