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If a bird is sitting on a branch and flies forward does the Pro Capture AF follow this or is the focus point fixed at the position the bird was sitting at?
I think Pro capture L can work with CAF but Pro capture H only does SAF. I tend to use Pro capture L with moving objects (moving towards or away from me).
ProCap SH2 with the OM-1 is an advance over the earlier bodies: 50fps with CAF gives lots of images to choose from with all but the very fastest moving subjects.
ProCap H gives plenty of images, but it’s only useful when the subject is moving laterally.
Regards,
Mark
------------------------------ http://www.microcontrast.com
Too much Oly gear.
Panasonic 8-18, 12-32, 15, 35-100. Laowa 10 f2.
Assorted legacy lenses, plus a Fuji X70 & Sony A7Cii and A7S.
First attempt.. Focus is on the bird and stays on the bird for the 2nd pic as it starts to take off, then focus moves to the leaves behind the bird as it takes flight. C-AF, Subject Detection set to bird. Any suggestions why this happened? Why wasn't the bird tracked?
Maybe it hadn't properly locked onto the bird to start with so ended up tracking the foliage? Also you may want to have a play with the tracking sensitivity +2 to -2. One end is more sticky tracking and the other end is less, just can't remember which is which off hand. I tend to leave mine on 0 generally.
Last edited by Ross the fiddler; 12 May 2023, 10:23 PM.
Reason: Corrected after being corrected.
Ross"I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera)". My Flickr OM-1, E-M1 Mk II plus 100-400mm f5-6.3 IS, 7-14, 12-40 & 40-150 f2.8 Pro lenses, MC14 & 20.
Yes its does work amazingly well when it gets it right but its not 100% . To be honest I would not expect it to be 100%.
Couple of things you need to remember;
1) Pro Cap use SH2 if possible as ir refocus's at 50fps for some pro lens's. With other lens's use SH2 @ 25fps or standard Pro-Cap at 20fps. ( Updated from Ross and Mike's comments below ). While I've not tested it, 25fps and 50fps are normally flicker less modes.
2) Buffer settings. At 50 fps and a reaction time of .2 seconds you need at least 10 frames to allow for your reaction time. I normally set 25 frames before action and 50 in total. It will take 25 pics if you fully press shutter but it will stop taking pics after you release shutter. So you will get between 25 and 50 depending on how long you hold shutter down. Yep you will need a big card and fastrawviewer to select the few you like.
3) Shutter speed 1/4000 or faster, aperture fully open. Yes you do need good light for this to work well.
4) Focus area, This you need to play with but will be all, large or mid depending on size of bird and direction they fly. All points works when you are not sure but does loose bird detect sometimes but large and medium area's react quicker.
5) sensitive +2. It makes very little difference in subject detect compared to without.
6) Allow space around bird as it will spread wings and fly away. I tend to keep bird to one side and hope it flies into open space from perch.
7) Ensure you are using a fast focusing lens
8) Image stabilisation, this I'm undecided about but am leaning to off if I can support lens as shutter speeds are so high.
9) There is an option somewhere for focus priority over fps. Am guessing focus might be better
10) Just remember every OM-1 user does things differently as there are so many options
Yes its bloody frustrating at times but when you get it right its brilliant!
Gary
P.S. make sure you have selected SH2, as mode selection cursor moves slowly I have selected wrong mode several times in past........grrrrrr
A good summary: I agree with all of that, including the areas of uncertainty!
Worth adding that really large birds move more slowly, so focus is more reliable but you need to run the series for longer or the bird will have barely left the branch before the series runs out! You can also get away with a slower shutter speed under those circumstances.
Yes its does work amazingly well when it gets it right but its not 100% . To be honest I would not expect it to be 100%.
Couple of things you need to remember;
1) Pro Cap SH2 is only mode that refocus's
2) Buffer settings. At 50 fps and a reaction time of .2 seconds you need at least 10 frames to allow for your reaction time. I normally set 25 frames before action and 50 in total. It will take 25 pics if you fully press shutter but it will stop taking pics after you release shutter. So you will get between 25 and 50 depending on how long you hold shutter down. Yep you will need a big card and fastrawviewer to select the few you like.
3) Shutter speed 1/4000 or faster, aperture fully open. Yes you do need good light for this to work well.
4) Focus area, This you need to play with but will be all, large or mid depending on size of bird and direction they fly. All points works when you are not sure but does loose bird detect sometimes but large and medium are react quicker.
5) sensitive +2. It makes very little difference in subject detect compared to without.
6) Allow space around bird as it will spread wings and fly away. I tend to keep bird to one side and hope it flies into open space from perch.
7) Ensure you are using a fast focusing lens
8) Image stabilisation, this I'm undecided about but am leaning to off if I can support lens as shutter speeds are so high.
9) There is an option somewhere for focus priority over fps. Am guessing focus might be better
10) Just remember every OM-1 user does things differently as there are so many options
Yes its bloody frustrating at times but when you get it right its brilliant!
Gary
P.S. make sure you have selected SH2, as mode selection cursor moves slowly I have selected wrong mode several times in past........grrrrrr
But ....... this is what the User Manual has.
Ross"I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera)". My Flickr OM-1, E-M1 Mk II plus 100-400mm f5-6.3 IS, 7-14, 12-40 & 40-150 f2.8 Pro lenses, MC14 & 20.
Already read that, it seems that for 'distance to subject' Pro Capture should be fine, but presumably for PRO lenses Pro Capture SH2 best?? Trial and error??
Yeah & how many frames you want etc. I just thought it was interesting that standard ProCapture was described that way & it might be more reliable for results with the 100-400 lens. I rarely use ProCapture myself so can only go manuals & advice.
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