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Back to my roots
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Back to my roots
Barrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.Tags: None
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Re: Back to my roots
I see what you're getting at, but it looks mainly green on my monitor. I think it also needs more contrast.Stephen
A camera takes a picture. A photographer makes a picture
Fuji X system, + Leica and Bronica film
My Flickr site
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Re: Back to my roots
Originally posted by StephenL View PostI see what you're getting at, but it looks mainly green on my monitor. I think it also needs more contrast.
Thanks:
Barrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.
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Re: Back to my roots
Barrie I think you have got pretty close to it with the first one but perhaps a sepia tint instead of green.
I think the correct term is hand coloured b&w, not to be confused with selective colouring which I think Stephen is thinking of. I used to do a lot of it in my b&w printing days with paint brushes and dyes and most prints were toned before colouring. I still have few from those days.
I also still collect the old hand coloured b&w movie star post cards.
A true hand coloured image should not have a lot of b&w in it at all as you can see from these vintage post cards although the dyes have faded a bit.
Regards Paul.
One day I hope to be the person my dogs think I am.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_silk/
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Re: Back to my roots
Certainly it looks more selective coloured than true hand coloured. On screen I prefer the second image - obviously I can't see what the printed result looks like.Stephen
A camera takes a picture. A photographer makes a picture
Fuji X system, + Leica and Bronica film
My Flickr site
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Re: Back to my roots
I prefer the second one on-screen, but the first looks more "coloured".
Thanks Olypaul for the interesting historical pictures. I tend to forget the fact that these old pictures were hand-tinted. Looking now, they seem to hold a magical (nostalgic) quality about them.
We are spoilt in this modern age!
David._____________________________________________
sigpicEM-5+MK 1 & 2; M.Zuiko 45mm f1.8; M.Zuiko 75-300mm; M.Zuiko, 9-18mm, HLD-6M; M.Zuiko, 12-40mm pro; M.Zuiko, 40-150mm pro; FL-600.
_________________________________________
If you think education's expensive, try ignorance.
_________________________________________
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Re: Back to my roots
Originally posted by DavidJ1609 View PostI prefer the second one on-screen, but the first looks more "coloured".
Thanks Olypaul for the interesting historical pictures. I tend to forget the fact that these old pictures were hand-tinted. Looking now, they seem to hold a magical (nostalgic) quality about them.
We are spoilt in this modern age!
David.
The printed version is very different as it was printed on pearl paper so the colours were optimised for printing not screen but I was interested in other peoples opinions to the effect, it was very nice of Paul to post the images as it gives a good comparison of what I wanted to achieve. I also followed an article in Black & White Photography but I only have Elements because my main software is Lightroom, and you cant do everything in Elements that you can in CS, but I wouldn't use it if I paid out the money.
BarrieBarrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.
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Re: Back to my roots
I like the effect. I think the first version looks far more authentic than the second. You might achieve even more of an authentic aged-out look by varying the extent of saturation/desaturation for different colours (see e.g. OlyPaul's genuine postcards). But the image you have (first version) is already destaurated and I don't think it would stand any more!
Did you make a note of the steps you took (that's always my failing!) and if so what were they?
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Re: Back to my roots
Originally posted by Makonde View PostI like the effect. I think the first version looks far more authentic than the second. You might achieve even more of an authentic aged-out look by varying the extent of saturation/desaturation for different colours (see e.g. OlyPaul's genuine postcards). But the image you have (first version) is already destaurated and I don't think it would stand any more!
Did you make a note of the steps you took (that's always my failing!) and if so what were they?
Yes I did:
1. Open Image in PS.
2. Adjust levels/curve to boost contrast.
3. Create B&W Layer (Layer>Adjustment Layer>Black & White)
4. Once B&W dialogue box opens try the different pre-set.
5. Now all you need to do is play around with the Opacity slider to get the effect you want, also to enhance certain areas you can use the eraser tool but be careful set the level at about 10% and keep working the same area.
6. finally flatten the layers, you still have a colour image so you can still adjust the overall effect with Adjust colours.
Please note that this was done in Photoshop Elements but it should be transferable to other software.
I hope people can make use of this,
BarrieBarrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.
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Re: Back to my roots
Originally posted by OlyPaul View PostBarrie I think you have got pretty close to it with the first one but perhaps a sepia tint instead of green.Barrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.
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Re: Back to my roots
Barrie, thank you for the steps, notably the use of the B&W adjustment layer as, in effect, a different kind of desaturation technique. I am always interested in image work.
I've had a go with a quite ordinary original image. I found that the IQ (E5) was nevertheless too good to be convincing when antiqued, so I added a further few steps. I took the basic image and applied a slight Orton effect to make it less clear, and very slightly altered some hues in the saturation dialogue. Then used a B&W Fractalius layer just underneath, with greatly reduced opacity, to leave some outlines showing through. Then I applied your technique, and flattened the image. Then I used a faint desaturating brush to make the desaturation slightly uneven across the photo. That still left an image that looked too new, so finally I applied a grungy vignetted texture.
My thinking was that with a genuine original tinted photo, the tints would be slightly unrealistic (hence alter hues); as it aged, the print would have faded unevenly (hence varied desaturation) and the darker parts especially lines would be left stronger than the washier areas. Uneven fading and use would add grunge.
Without Fractalius one could probably get a similar, very faint emphasis of the darker lines by using a sub-layer of some Photoshop filter such as sumi-e or ink outlines, then reducing that to a skeleton by changing contrast and suchlike).
Result is here:
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Re: Back to my roots
[QUOTE=Makonde;97074]Barrie, thank you for the steps, QUOTE]
I'm glad they were helpful.Barrie Norman
http://bwpn.zenfolio.com/
http://naturalhistorycambs.blogspot.com/
Digital Equipment: Olympus E1 - E30 - E-500 | EC-14 & EC-20 Teleconverter | Zukio 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 150mm F/2, 50-200mm SWD, 70-300mm | Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 SLD, 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC MACRO, 150 F2.8 Macro & 50-500mm (Bigma) |Tamron 135mm f/2.5 Macro 200mm f/3.5 | Optecka 800mm f/8 Prime | Wallimax 500mm F/6.3 Mirror Lens | Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 O Digital Flash | Manfrotto 055XB Tripod, Opticron Carbon Fibre "Traveller" Tripod, Sidewinder Gimbal Head, Manfratto 676B monopod, Manfrotto 322RC2 Head Lowpro Nature Trekker AWII, Lowpro Vertex 100 AW and Lowpro Toploader Pro 75 AW.
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