I have seen a tilt shift FF on the auction site, not a bad price, 24mm so like 48 on MFT. Obviously I would need an adapter, but has anyone used a non MFT tilt shift lens on an MFT body. Not sure if I really need one, hence the "Help' prefix.
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Nice link Henry. Never used it myself but Peter really shows off how easily it works. Might give it a try if I ever get round to taking pictures again!
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I tried it when it was included in a firmware update. to the EM1.1 in 2014
I was at the side

Same position but with the keystone comp
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I once had the OM24/3.5 shift lens, which at the time was a wondrous device because there was not an easy way to get decent architectural images on film. I now have a 35/2.8 tilt/shift lens constructed from a medium format 35mm lens and an almost hand-built chassis to provide the tilts and shifts, and an OM mount. I think it's a Volna lens at heart, but it is not one of the very pricy Hartblei Super Rotator lenses.
Forget about the tilts. There are easier ways to get differential focus (the images of townscapes you see that look like a model) or expanded depth of field. But the shifts *are* useful, and not just for the keystone correction. Think landscape panoramas - I generally have the lens fully shifted to the right for the first image, then I can simply rotate the lens on the chassis so it is fully shifted to the left for the second image. Stitching is easy, for there is no parallax error. And remember that software keystone correction will likely lose you some pixels (though, I confess, I haven't used the EM1 in-body facility). I have used the lens on m4/3 as well as Fuji X with good results. And I must try it on the Metaboness speedbooster one of these days....
If the price is right - go for it, but Graham is right, used T/S lenses hold their value rather well.
Piers
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For Henry, a few examples of a shift lens in use for easy-to-stitch panoramas. For general landscapes you can get away with a lot, but when you have "stuff" in the foreground, the stitching quickly gets complicated. Very. It's because the relative positions of near and far objects change as the camera angle change (unless you are careful to rotate the camera around the lens nodal point). So long as you keep the camera fixed in position, a shift lens allows you to take a pair of photos without any such problem, as I hope you can see here.
First, an apology, these are quick and even dirtier than expected, because I didn't use a tripod and I misjudged the position of the first two shifted images. When I came to butt them together (no overlap needed for shifted images) I found a gap, so the dark splodge down the middle of the first panorama is content aware fill at work, with the vignetting magnified :-( and I didn't get the positioning right for the overhead cables. Sorry, mea culpa etc.
So to the pairs of base images, look at the horizontal gate bar in the foreground - in the images with the shift lens, it remains horizontal while in the images with no shift, it slopes either way. Look at the Photoshop merge, see how one image has been skewed off-square to make the merge work, yet there is still a step in the gate. And yet in the shifted images, there are continuous straight lines where there should be.
Hope it helps to illustrate the point.
Piers
PS these were all taken with a 35mm/2.8 lens at f/5.6. Lens mounted on a Metabones Speedbooster, thus effective 24mm focal length, equivalent full frame 48mm. More or less!6 Photos
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