Until recently I have been using an Olympus M1ii with PL 100-400mm for birding. The lens stabilisation of the lens totally locks onto the subject and is far better than the in-camera IBIS. I now have a new OM-1 with the Oly 300f4 pro for birding. As I understand it, the choices are either no stabilisation at all, or both the lens stabilisation and body IOS working together. Compared to the stabilisation provided by the PL 100-400 I am very disappointed. I seriously wonder if it is working as it should. Sure, the image is steadier than without it, but it is in no way comparable. I have seen comments that Oly stabilisation leads the world, so is something wrong with my setup. I simply have it activated in the camera menu and on the lens. Is there something else I need to be aware of?
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The 300mm F4 should be much better than the 100-400m. I think the advice is to make the lens IS a priority. It is a switch in the cog menu somewhere.
The 300mm has an IS switch which needs to be switched on.
Easily checked just by half pressing the shutter, the image will remain quite still, within reason.
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The image does remain still "within reason" but absolutely nothing like with the PL 100-400 on my M1ii. That combination was of a different level, the image locked totally. No "within reason" about it. I expected the OM-1 with 300f4 pro to be the same. It is not at all. Total disappointment leads me to think I must be missing something.
Update. I have turned on the "Lens Priority" setting and this looks a lot better. Perhaps that is what I was missing.
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I don't know if it's the same with Olympus, but lens IS was always considered preferable over IBIS because it locked the image down in the viewfinder.
This is probably no longer the case with electronic viewfinders and mirrorless cameras.
When I use my G9 with the 12-100 it only uses the lens IS and its rock solid.
It's supposed to be better when sync IS is utilised, but it never seemed so on my E-M1 ii.
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Olympus OM-1 does not work like Panasonic. If the Olympus lens has IS, then there are just 2 choices, either the lens IS and the body IS both work together, or neither work. You have the choice determined by the switch on the lens. There is no option to have one or the other.
I think I may have found the source of the problem as in my comment above.
To complicate matters, a Panasonic lens on an Oly body is different yet again.
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That is exactly how a stabilised Panasonic body and camera work together too, its Dual IS or nothing.Originally posted by KennyC View PostOlympus OM-1 does not work like Panasonic. If the Olympus lens has IS, then there are just 2 choices, either the lens IS and the body IS both work together, or neither work.
Glad you have sussed the problem out
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For birding on moving subjects I never use body IS only on perched shots in poor light slow shutter low ISO.When you move the lens to target subject if body IS is used then you are fighting against the IS as it wants to steady you so another electronic sequence is employed to combat movement and slow down focus aquisition,lens OIS is necessary to see subject especially on telephoto lenses hand held.My theory is less electronic settings the better the CAF works.ps preffered the lumix to the oly lens,just needed pro cap facilities.
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FWIW, there is a theory that if the shutter speed is fast enough, you will not need IS of any sort.....
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The usual calculation is 1/ (FF focal length)s. So a 300mm on an mFT, will be 1/600s as recommended.
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I find that a major advantage of the IS on long lens shots is the stabilisation of the image in the viewfinder - seems to make finding the bird and staying on the bird much easier. I frequently shoot at ~700mm (the full zoom of the 150-500 + internal TC plus external 1.4TC) so I appreciate the help.
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Yes but in a dark woodland with only f4 available and an ISO of say 6400, the luxury of choosing 1/800sec (at 400mm mft), simply is not available. I am often as low as 1/50 or 1/100. Try that without stabilisation!Originally posted by blu-by-u View PostThe usual calculation is 1/ (FF focal length)s. So a 300mm on an mFT, will be 1/600s as recommended.
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That's why we appreciate the IS.
I have to use high ISO to compensate. The stage I shoot, minimum are 1/125s. Have been trying out the ISO at ranges of 12500. Seems that the OM-1 performs better/cleaner than the EM1mk3. Still testing
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