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I noticed a thread about how to get a white background for product shots. This is by no means the only way but I find it stunningly simple and ultra quick and I use it for all sorts of work.
If you do re-record it, perhaps you take it a bit more slowly as well.
I'm mentioning these problems because I'm going to find the technique _very_ useful.
My partner has produced an illustrated children's book which I'm in the process of digitising. There are lots of small images with a white background that are to be pasted onto the page. This means that the background whites have to be as white as the page.
Until now I've just used levels and used the white dropper to make the background white. I think I'll have to go back to these images and use your technique. I'm going to have a go at it now!
Is there a similar technique to make the background transparent? I've been using a 30 day trial of 'Topaz Labs Remask 2' to do this - it's similar to Photoshop's Extract Filter, but maybe a way similar to 'yours' would be as effective or better.
If you do re-record it, perhaps you take it a bit more slowly as well.
I'm mentioning these problems because I'm going to find the technique _very_ useful.
My partner has produced an illustrated children's book which I'm in the process of digitising. There are lots of small images with a white background that are to be pasted onto the page. This means that the background whites have to be as white as the page.
Until now I've just used levels and used the white dropper to make the background white. I think I'll have to go back to these images and use your technique. I'm going to have a go at it now!
Is there a similar technique to make the background transparent? I've been using a 30 day trial of 'Topaz Labs Remask 2' to do this - it's similar to Photoshop's Extract Filter, but maybe a way similar to 'yours' would be as effective or better.
Jim
To get a transparent background you would not normally flatten the image. Lets suppose you complete all the steps in the video and now you want a transparent background, at the moment you only have the one layer with 100% white background. Duplicate the layer then turn off the visibility for the original layer. Now with the second (duplicate) layer selected and visible select the magic wand tool and click anywhere on the white then hit the delete key (not hard). You will now have your object on it's own layer without a bg. Now you delete the bottom (original)layer and save the file in psd or tiff format. DO not flatten image or save as jpg.
This is a quickie version and you need to learn a bit about mask's and channels really but the above will work OK. PM me if you are having problems.
I noticed that I still needed to use levels to get the whites as near as possible, to correct for slight underexposure. If I didn't do this, the masked portion of the image remained underexposed, with the grey of the original background overlaid on the image. This produced a flat degraded look to the image.
I also guess you use a later version of Photoshop than CS2, because I don't have 'Localised Color Clusters' in the 'Replace Color' box. I don't know what difference this makes.
I'll have a go at using a transparent background as you suggested.
I noticed that I still needed to use levels to get the whites as near as possible, to correct for slight underexposure. If I didn't do this, the masked portion of the image remained underexposed, with the grey of the original background overlaid on the image. This produced a flat degraded look to the image.
I also guess you use a later version of Photoshop than CS2, because I don't have 'Localised Color Clusters' in the 'Replace Color' box. I don't know what difference this makes.
I'll have a go at using a transparent background as you suggested.
Jim
It sounds like you have not got CS2 set up on your machine correctly. If you just installed PS then started using it without setting it up correctly you will never have correct colours.
It sounds like you have not got CS2 set up on your machine correctly. If you just installed PS then started using it without setting it up correctly you will never have correct colours.
Not sure what you mean by that. My monitor's calibrated and the correct profile is used. What I see on the screen is a very good representation of the photographed scene.
TRY THIS:
Also when you first duplicate your layer do not delete the original. When you have done your thing with the duplicate layer and you have the object on its own layer apply a layer mask to your duplicate layer (the one with the object on). You can then mask in the detail from the original layer which is underneath.
The images will ultimately be embedded in a pdf file for a commercial printer.
TRY THIS:
Also when you first duplicate your layer do not delete the original. When you have done your thing with the duplicate layer and you have the object on its own layer apply a layer mask to your duplicate layer (the one with the object on). You can then mask in the detail from the original layer which is underneath.
I'll have a go at it.
If I slightly underexpose the illustrations in order that I don't blow subtle highlight detail, and the illustration is evenly illuminated, what's wrong with simply using levels to create the white background?
Using the highlight dropper on the white background 'pulls' all the image towards the RH side of the histogram. This give the white background and just as importantly gives the correct tonality in the image detail.
I'd like to get this right because there's a lot of images, and I don't really want to go over them again, if I subsequently find a better way of getting a white background whilst preserving image detail and tonality.
You could also try using OneOne softwares Mask Pro 4 which is a photoshop plugin and is really good. I use it mainly for bubbles and getting rid of the sky which shows between tree branches/leaves etc. Very good tool indeed. As the name suggest's it uses mask's so you would benefit from learning about their use and also channels within Photoshop. Good luck with your project.
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