Indoor low light fast moving subject..

[Matt_Hirst]

Ava, my daughter, has decided to try skateboarding so off we went to the local park where she proceeded to ask 50 year old me how to do it.... anyway after a few dismal attempts I managed to get it going but struggled to teach Ava anything...you may be wondering what this has to do with my OM1, bear with me.

Fast forward a few weeks and we went along to the local indoor skatepark for an event and look-see so I took my camera to take some shots.

Anyway out of my comfort zone I tried my usual bird settings but without the bird recognition with the 40-150 f 2.8 lens. Some shots came out OK but I was struggling for speed as the indoor place is not the brightest of locations, they've got old lightening in there so struggled with flickering being captured.

On Monday we were at the skatepark and the people who run it thanked me for taking the pics and asked if I'd like to do some more photos at their next event...

So where do I start with better settings under low light, flickering tubed lighting to try capture fast moving objects like skateboarders hoing over jumps etc?

Matt

[Graham_of_Rainham]

I’ve shot karate and roller hockey in sports halls with an E-3 and the FL-50. If the skaters are ok with the flash, it’s probably the best way to get good stop action shots that will not have to much colour from the ambient lighting.

Other than that, a fast lens and high ISO shooting RAW and colour correction in post production.

get there early and dial in the settings during the warm ups

have fun

[Punkawallah]

It's a difficult one unless you can use remote flash set up at the side so it doesn't blind the skateboarders. I've seen a guy use this kind of setup trackside at small moto x events. In that case it produces images that, to my eye, look too 'static' due, in the main, to it freezing the wheels. You probably won't have that issue with boarding?

[R99C99]

I shoot gymnastics in similar indoor ‘halls’. High ISO is the saviour for me and post processing RAW to remove noise and correct any colour issues from the lighting. I think the last time was with a 12-100 which is only f4. And still managed to get good 1/250 to 1/400 shots by pushing the iso.