Combined 3-axis IS with E-M5 & M.ZD 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS lens?

[Ross the fiddler]

There has been discussions about the sharpness or lack of it from users because of incorrect settings, including FW updates with using the Olympus 100-400 lens. Robin Wong set out to address this issue, but one advice was to set Lens IS Priority to ON, however to according instructions in the manuals I feel it doesn't matter what that setting is, so just leave it set to ON & all will be well anyhow (quoted from E-M1 III manual).

Lens I.S. Priority Select [On] to give priority to lens on-board image
stabilization when shooting with third-party lenses. [S-IS1]
will be used when [S-IS AUTO] is selected for [K Image
Stabilizer] (P. 97).
• This option has no effect on lenses that are equipped with
an image stabilization switch

EDIT: The following Robin Wong tells me I am wrong.
One of the things I thought I discovered was using the old E-M5 with a FW update it had in the past that in effect it allowed using all Olympus lenses with in built IS to utilise roll correction that was recently included with E-M1 II & E-M5 III (I believe FW was updated to E-M1 III & E-MX but not included with details). This same update came to E-M10, E-M10 II & E-P5 & E-PL7 which allows the lens's IS to correct for yaw & pitch while the camera body corrects for roll, resulting with 3-axis IS.
Here is the update that was for the E-M5.
Ver.2.2
(Jan.28 2016)

Compatible with Olympus lens with a built-in image stabilizing function. * The camera body recognizes the IS built into the lens, allowing for optimal image stabilizing effects. * Not compatible with 5 axis Sync IS. * You can get the effects of rolling stabilization from the IS function of the body, along with the effects of image stabilization from the IS function of the lens.

Here's a crop (1000 x 750 pixels) of a photo I took today with the 100-400 lens on my E-M5 (Pittosporum undulatum) using IS ON for both lens & body.
This not recommended, but it seems to work OK though.



Original image.

[blackfox]

as well as the items mentioned above you have to ensure you know your camera and settings inside out . i.e I knew from use with my 1-mkii body that my lens was pin sharp . I have to admit on buying the mkiii body I really struggled for a few weeks BUT it was just a case of sitting down quietly and altering a few settings to suit your style , and I'm now very happy with the combo .

I think what you have in the complainers is photographers that have come from nikon or canon and expect to just bolt the lens on and get perfect results .. it doesn't work like that . and the first thing I advise people when they have asked me for help is before claiming the lens is soft go to the rear screen and get the focus point info up and check where your actual focus point has ended up . 99% of the time they are well off target ..

my gut feeling is newcomers to the system from the other brands are simply pressing to hard on the shutter button and at 800mm or longer with a t.c are depressing the lens off target .. easily done ..

oh to have the old aperture set up on my i.mac where you could review focus points on computer I really miss that little gizmo and its a major oversight by adobe not to include it , not as yet found a bolt on that does the trick .if anyone does let us know

[wanderer]

I think Robin Wong's suggestion of using anti-shock shutter is very valid as well.
I use it nearly all the time even when shooting sequential and it does take out one wee extra bump.
Silent does the same but you have no idea of how many shots you have taken.

[Phill D]

I always use the anti shock setting. Haven't seen any downside yet.

[Ross the fiddler]

I guess I was too busy thinking my point (bee in my bonnet) without noticing that part of the comment, because I always use Sequential Low -Anti-shock (unless something else specifically), out of habit from the E-M1 & then to E-M1 II, even though it was much better with a damped mount for the shutter mechanism.