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  • Harold Gough
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Ralph,

    a) I have a set

    b) It was years before I found one I could afford

    c) I have never used them seriously, mainly because my subjects don't really need them.

    d) Consider the thickness taking up working distance, as with ring flash in the first place. This was my major reason for not using them, just as I now avoid using ring flash for digital macro.

    e) Beware of the polariser coating separating away, as it had done with my first set.

    f) These will not help you with jewellery photography.

    g) The fitting is for 49mm filter thread.

    h) Grab a set while you can, if the price is right?

    Harold

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  • Ralph Harwood
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Originally posted by Harold Gough View Post
    Mike,

    Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

    Harold
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OLYMPUS-OM...oAAOSwciVXP5lc
    Last edited by Ralph Harwood; 18th June 2016, 09:52 PM. Reason: added link

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  • Harold Gough
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Mike,

    On the morning shoot aspect, I have been finding Danceflies in my garden on the last two mornings but not in the afternoons. This is from a small sample of encounters but worth noting.

    I shot a very special insect today. See tomorrow's upload.

    Harold

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  • Mdb2
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Originally posted by Harold Gough View Post
    Mike,

    Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

    Harold
    Good morning HAROLD, yes I agree with the proviso that it helps with sun in the right position, my understanding is that the original author was taking his photos of the dragon in the crucifix position during the day. Not many dragons hang around for a second shot if you mess up the first attempt with flash. In general dragons depending on the time lapse from emergence you can stand a better chance the earlier in the morning as possible for flash.

    I have hinted at staying away from cheaper polarisers to the author. I found the Olympus 60mm macro to effect macro, IE one to one ratio. You have to get much to close to the subject. I don't even use my canon 100mm IS either preferring a 180mm macro to allow some distance from subject,most dragons would be off with a large white type diffuser and flash as well as a large predator coming at them. The downside of a 180 is weight, which for me is quite a priority therefore I chose the Tamron 180 mm. My go to kit for dragons is :- em1 metabones tamron 180 (canon fit) for close up or macro
    And a Canon 7d2 with 300L prime. The latter is for DIF and distance if I do not think the subject is confiding enough, a slow cautious aproach is used until about a metre from the subject where by the em1/ tamron takes over.

    Fortunately everyone does what they need to do to get the shot and it's good to hear what others do
    Kind regards Mike

    http://www.wingsofnature.org/

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  • Harold Gough
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Originally posted by Mdb2 View Post
    Hi I also do a lot of dragonfly photography, I do believe a lot of the problem can be caused with having to shoot during the sunnier days for our subjects I am therefore leaning the other way with light.
    As you are aware a lot of dragons/ damsels at this time of year are fresh emergence thus there wings are glossy anyway. I have just recently started using a polariser for my set up to try to lower the problem of shiny wings along with the water droplets on plants and the water surface of the pond/ lake/ river.
    However cheap polarisers lose 2+ stops of light where as a good brand will cut this back to about 1 stop. Work in progress at the moment. But looking promising.
    Kind regards Mike
    Mike,

    Polarisers only work with reflections in one plane. With uneven surfaces, droplets, etc., the remedial effect maybe minimal. (With actual metallic surfaces it may be zero). My subject matter for macro rarely requires polarisers, but I always purchased the best I could afford.

    Harold

    Leave a comment:


  • Mdb2
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Hi I also do a lot of dragonfly photography, I do believe a lot of the problem can be caused with having to shoot during the sunnier days for our subjects I am therefore leaning the other way with light.
    As you are aware a lot of dragons/ damsels at this time of year are fresh emergence thus there wings are glossy anyway. I have just recently started using a polariser for my set up to try to lower the problem of shiny wings along with the water droplets on plants and the water surface of the pond/ lake/ river.
    However cheap polarisers lose 2+ stops of light where as a good brand will cut this back to about 1 stop. Work in progress at the moment. But looking promising.
    Kind regards Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Harold Gough
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Here are my macro setups:

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/top...20/25#13097035

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/top...20/25#13097146

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/top...20/25#13213668

    The latest modification:

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/top...20/25#13097035

    Don't concern yourself with the particular lenses I am using but just get some ideas.

    Harold

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  • Imageryone
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    I use bubblewrap and toilet paper to reduce light from all flashes, works well and is CHEAP

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  • alfbranch
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Originally posted by Lakota View Post
    so I need a ring to go from 43mm to 46mm ? looked at the video on the raynox site the images don't look very good?
    Roger Lighting is the key macro and good light makes all the difference look at the 2 fly shots in post #16

    This guy is under 2mm long and shot using the three tubes the sigma 105 and the raynox at abot 3X magnification

    Katiannidae by Alf Branch, on Flickr

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  • Lakota
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    so I need a ring to go from 43mm to 46mm ? looked at the video on the raynox site the images don't look very good?

    Leave a comment:


  • alfbranch
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Roger
    The rear filter thread is 43 mm on the raynox and without the available adapter to 46 mm the filter will fit 52 to 67 mm

    Look here for info

    http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/...exdcr250eg.htm

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  • Lakota
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Hi Alf if I use the olympus 60mm macro lens which is 46mm what step down ring would I need for the raynox 250 please?
    and using the clip on what size step up ring
    sorry to bother you but would appreciate your help in this matter
    thanks very much
    kind regards
    Roger

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  • Lakota
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    i already have an olympus mmf3

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  • Lakota
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Any idea what step up ring I need for the olympus 60mm macro? love the link for the bracket looks really cool and clever, going to order one now, I can try my metz 58 af2 flash wirelessly using the olympus flash that comes with the camera, will check ebay see if I can find a sigma lens, thanks for the awesome help and suggestions

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  • alfbranch
    replied
    Re: Macro flash

    Roger
    For the Raynox you need a step up ring to use it with the clip on holder or a step down ring to screw it on directly I would go step up the you can clip it off as quick as a lens cap.

    If you find a 4/3 fit sigma 105 you use a MMF1, 2 or 3 or third part converter and it will AF and the apperture control will work.

    Edit with a link

    http://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/l...f_3/index.html

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